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 F2/J2/L2 dashboard backing
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bloodysalmon

United Kingdom
463 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  09:27:25  Show Profile
I am intrigued to see what people think and have done with regards to back-mounting their aluminium dashbaord on a F2/J2/L2?
The basis aluminium dash appears thin and therefore a bit too flexible to fit, so where they strenghtened or original backed by a ply-type wood or something? Pictures tells everything, but if they are best panelled, what cut outs are made to ease all the gauge/dial fittings?
My other query is; How does the Aluminium dash fit best to the scuttle body?

Chris Blood (D0407, D0430 & F0753)

greg

United Kingdom
316 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  09:38:03  Show Profile
Originally I don't think they had anything that's how they were. My dad hasn't put anything behind his It is ok but if you push on the bottom it is a bit flimsy. It would benefit a piece of wood running across the bottom to brace it for a bit extra support. You could fit something across the bottom behind the dash but it will need a piece Cut out to go around the cut out for the steering column.
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bloodysalmon

United Kingdom
463 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  09:50:07  Show Profile
Greg, as you say the setup seems to be rather flimsy and requires a better and stronger solution ... someone must have sussed a smart remedy to this one?

Chris Blood (D0407, D0430 & F0753)
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greg

United Kingdom
316 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  10:16:47  Show Profile
It will be good to see what other people have done. My dad has a full set of instruments all the extras there is not much room to put something in. I think the best way to brace it would be with steel.
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George Eagle

United Kingdom
1367 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  11:41:05  Show Profile
Hi Chris

The dash on my L2 when I purchased it was very poor, wrong and flimsy. I made my own dash out of 3/16" dural sheet, it is nice and light but firm. I used a drawing very kindly sent to me by Stephen Cooper long time owner of L2080, although the mountings of the dash lamps are lower than the drawing due to the shape of the wood frame for the scuttle.

It was quite hard work cutting it to shape and making the apertures for the instruments! As I have an ENV75 with a speedo drive I fitted a 3" speedo and a rev counter; I also have a boost guage so moved the clock over to the left.

Best regards

George
L2023 and NA0960
Nr Nuckingham




Edited by - George Eagle on 13/02/2012 11:47:22
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bloodysalmon

United Kingdom
463 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  15:30:34  Show Profile
George, its not so much of making the dash as I already have one. It's the way it's strenghened and then attached, the more I think of it that aluminium dash really is weak especially if you push or pull any of the instruments for operation.
------------------------------------------
If you have a L2 but with a ENV box, am I right in saying your gearbox remote can't be right? I can make you a rounded (F-type) bracket with what ever you need i.e. 'out-to-start', 'in-to-start' and 'slowing running' on the left or right-hand side?

Chris Blood (D0407, D0430 & F0753)
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greg

United Kingdom
316 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  15:37:49  Show Profile
I just looked at my dads there is no room to fit anything in across the back there's too much in the way. It doesnt really need any support it is quite sturdy. It's not as flimsy as I thought.
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peterb

Australia
49 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  22:50:12  Show Profile
my L1 needed a new dash , so I made it to a borrowed pattern in light alloy , with the correct cutouts and glued it to a backing of marine plywood [ about three /eights of an inch thick ]. The result is very solid. regards Peter
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tholden

United Kingdom
743 Posts

Posted - 13/02/2012 :  23:38:20  Show Profile
I am a bit perplexed by this thread ! A J2 dash of the right thickness and correctly fitted is not "a bit too flexible " or "a bit too flexible to fit". It is not affected by the operation of any of the instruments. I agree with Greg and do not see why it needs any additional support.

The dash panel should be screwed in place using 7 raised head countersunk screws and as originally fitted there were shaped plywood spacers between the dash and the scuttle timber. There should also be metal strengthening strips screwed in place between the scuttle hoops and the front bulhead timber. If these are missing the scuttle timber and the dashboard screwed to it will not feel so firm.

TH
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dbass

United Kingdom
50 Posts

Posted - 14/02/2012 :  21:39:22  Show Profile
My dash bought from one of the specalist suppliers was very flimsy when first fitted so have backed with plywood, would there be any chance of a diagram of the various pieces of plywood and metal strips and where they would fit please.

Thanks David f0708

Edited by - dbass on 14/02/2012 21:42:35
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tholden

United Kingdom
743 Posts

Posted - 14/02/2012 :  22:05:16  Show Profile
David I will not be in my workshop for a couple of days but when I am there next I will look to see if I have some original segments of ply. If I do not then I can only tell you from memory that there were usually crescent shaped pieces of ply tacked to each scuttle hoop and that these acted as spacers to enable the dash to be positioned correctly in relation to the wired edge of the scuttle top.
Regards


TH
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PeterL

United Kingdom
679 Posts

Posted - 14/02/2012 :  22:25:38  Show Profile
I have a gash dash suitable for a pattern if anyone needs one...

Cheers

P
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John46

United Kingdom
18 Posts

Posted - 15/02/2012 :  08:31:16  Show Profile
To Peterl,
Yes please,I need to make one.

John.
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