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Malcolm Bailey
United Kingdom
301 Posts |
 Posted - 23/05/2018 : 22:26:46
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My car is suffering from an excessive oil leak from the rear of the engine block through the Archimedes screw. I have been told of this kit which, I think, was originally designed for Morris minor engines and is available from Moss .
Has anyone tried this kit or know whether it would be suitable for an NType engine, or indeed is there an alternative solution
All comments welcome.
Thank you
Malcolm |
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Brian Kelly
USA
526 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 03:34:25
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Hi Malcolm.
The usual method is to machine the Archimedes thread down and fit a suitable modern lip seal in the flywheel housing. I can't find the seal ref. number but it is a little harrowing when you see how thin in dia. and depth of the seal actually is. It was questionable if the seal would overheat.
I've done a fair amount of mileage with no trouble on a P-type after the conversion.
Good luck.
Brian.
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Colin Butchers
United Kingdom
1480 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 10:18:46
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The modification described by Brian is very common indeed. Whilst, logically one or two might have failed, due most likely to inaccurate machining, but I would suggest that there are dozens and dozens of MMM engines running around very successfully. At the risk of tempting providence, my own PA has just done over 17000 miles in four years and (at present) shows no sign of rear main bearing oil leakage.
Colin B. |
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Malcolm Bailey
United Kingdom
301 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 13:08:24
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Thanks Brian and Colin for your comments. I have spoken to a local Motor engineering specialist who suggested that if I withdraw the rear main flange from the engine and take it to him, he would be able to machine it to take a lip seal which could then be inserted into the block and provide a satisfactory result. This would avoid the need to take out the engine which I am reluctant to do.
Is this feasible?
Malcolm
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poulsendk
Denmark
270 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 16:02:19
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I have used 48x60x8 mm lipsealings on my M engines
Jørgen Poulsen
MGM 1930 MGM 1931 |
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MaGic_GV
United Kingdom
868 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 17:42:35
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quote:
Originally posted by Malcolm Bailey
Thanks Brian and Colin for your comments. I have spoken to a local Motor engineering specialist who suggested that if I withdraw the rear main flange from the engine and take it to him, he would be able to machine it to take a lip seal which could then be inserted into the block and provide a satisfactory result. This would avoid the need to take out the engine which I am reluctant to do.
Is this feasible?
Malcolm
Malcolm, you would have to remove the clutch housing and gearbox to gain access, then do a lot of grubbing about in the remaining space to remove and replace the rear main flange. I would think it simpler to extract the engine!
In fact you may find it necessary to remove the complete rear housing, which would need to be re-aligned. Proper engineers read no further, but I did this (for a different reason which now escapes me) by judicious tapping while gently turning the crankshaft (no rods and pistons attached) until it felt right.
Regards,
Graham
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g waiting
United Kingdom
719 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 17:43:47
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Hi,
The kit you refer to at first is for T series cars, no good for you.
In your later post, how would the lipseal be fitted in the block. Normally the rear housing is line bored with the main bearings to give an accurate location.
Garry |
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JMH
United Kingdom
910 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 19:52:38
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Malcolm, you're not a million miles from S&V, give them a call & I'm sure they'll have all the information you need. My J2 had this mod in around 1983 & it's still the same seal in there - one of the few oil-tight areas! Mine was done by Baynton Jones, thoroughly recommend, but I miss the smoke burning off the clutch I remember from my youth.
JH |
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Nick Dean
United Kingdom
436 Posts |
Posted - 24/05/2018 : 20:15:24
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Malcomn I have just done this mod using a 50x 58x 4 Viton green seal. The very important thing to remember when making the new gasket between block & bellhousing is to cut out the small rectangular hole below the main bearing in the gasket for the oil to return to sump., easily missed if one is distracted as I was, and I had to have box, clutch f/wheel , main out again. All OK now. Good luck Nick
N A Dean |
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Gary K
USA
270 Posts |
Posted - 25/05/2018 : 12:46:43
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Here is a few photos of the early style. Then the modified parts.
Gary
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Malcolm Bailey
United Kingdom
301 Posts |
Posted - 26/05/2018 : 10:46:41
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Thank you all for your comments. The conclusion is that I need to take the engine out of the car, which is going to be this winter’s project.
I shall print out your helpful comments (and pictures) for guidance.
Thanks again
Malcolm |
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