I'm attempting replacement of the gauze, so far without success. Despite cleaning the surfaces with isopropyl alchohol the solder just forms balls & will not penetrate the mesh. I'm guessing that the surface tension of the solder is too great for the gauge of mesh? So far I've tried cored electrical solder with a gas blowlamp & wonder how others have tackled this job. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Assuming you are using brass gauze? I have sometimes found it can be reluctant to 'tin'. This can usually be encouraged by introducing something like a screwdriver (or a big pre-heated soldering bit) and pressing and rubbing the molten solder with it whilst still playing the flame. You will end up with a solder coated screwdriver (easily cleaned off). I have used this method sucessfully to overcome the effect you describe.
'had the same problem when I was repairing the oil strainer on my TD. The solution was to use "proper" soldering flux - Bakers Fluid and a soldering iron. Cored solder doesn't clean off oxide particularly well so the solder is relucant to "wet". Also using a flame you will overheat the gauze and again cause it to oxidise. Your only problem will be buying Bakers Fluid - it's not the thing you can get in B&Q.
Hi Dave, i cleaned the gauze by glass blasting first and had not a problem. Use a gas soldering-iron or a big electrical. The probelm is, you make it realy hot. Otherwise you test soldering fluid from a slater (roofer, tiler ?)or copper-tube soldering paste. At the end clean it very good with water or in a ultra sonic bath. Cheers
Many thanks to all who have replied to my plea. I have some of those things you "have to do" but will shortly get back to it with all your suggestions. Fortunately the area supplied by Mike Dowley is such that I can throw away my first attempt! Cheers, Dave
Sump suction filter gauze
Posted - 09/03/2010 : 11:55:49
