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 accelerator linkage frontmounted supercharger
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Hillebrand

Germany
87 Posts

Posted - 22/03/2020 :  22:27:21  Show Profile
Hi all

I'm looking for a solution regarding the accelerator linkage of a front mounted volumex supercharger for my PA.
Some photos would be great!

Thank You in advance!

otto

craig.cootsona

USA
24 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  07:47:15  Show Profile
Hello Otto,

I recently made up some linkage for the supercharger on my XPAG-powered TA special. I used some 1/4" stainless steel rod, bent to shape, and threaded the ends to go into some high quality stainless ball joints, with extra thread for length adjustablity. The ball joint studs attach to the throttle lever on the firewall, and the bell crank on the supercharger cross tube.

For your MMM engine it might be a straight shot, and I believe the contemporary QA (Q-type) ran the rod under the radiator crosstube instead of above as I have done. In my case I needed to get clearance around the oil filter and it was far simpler to run over the top and through a home-made brass P-clip as a guide.

It took some trial and error to get a shape that fit and slid smoothly along the range of motion but it works nicely now. The first picture shows the firewall lever from the throttle shaft, with 3 adjustment holes, connected to the stainless rod. The second photo shows the rod along the engine and through a small brass p-clip guide, and to the far left of the photo the top of the bell crank on the supercharger cross tube is just visible.









Cheers,
Craig
TA2962
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Hillebrand

Germany
87 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  12:57:11  Show Profile
Hello Craig

Thank You for these helpful photos! I'll try.

otto
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Deess

France
82 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  16:32:36  Show Profile












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Deess

France
82 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  16:34:53  Show Profile
oops forgotten words..
PA with godfrey blower in front.same scuttle likage as the T type and 2 showing linkages to blower..hope this helps..David.
in sunny sw.france staying isolated...
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Deess

France
82 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  16:39:36  Show Profile
PS, that is the slotted green belt on the TA alternator that I mentioned for blower drives a while ago to get round the space problem on the lower pulley...It will take the power needed...and easily replaceable links...
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Peter Green

United Kingdom
1682 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  17:29:36  Show Profile
For those that want to use the original accelerator linkage without any modification this is what I have done using a throttle cable.

The top picture shows the inner cable fitted to the original arm and the outer cable fitted to a right angle bracket bolted to the steering column gaiter fixing bolts.

The lower picture shows how the outer cable was fixed to a bracket and the inner cable was fitted to the carburettor.









Peter
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Tim Luffingham

United Kingdom
217 Posts

Posted - 23/03/2020 :  19:20:20  Show Profile

To add to Peterís response the throttle cable was a Venhill Universal Motorcycle Throttle cable kit. 2.35 meters long ( 6mm outer) found on EBay.

Tim
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roger cadogan

United Kingdom
250 Posts

Posted - 25/03/2020 :  23:17:00  Show Profile
Hi Otto, Being of a similar mind to Peter you might like to take a look at my PA installation. The only change to the original parts of the car is to drill one 1/4" hole in the fire wall to anchor the choke cable. I wanted the choke and slow running controls to work as original and preferred the use of rods for the throttle that were either pulled or rotated.
The first picture shows the linkage onto the cross over rod all using existing holes.
Near the cutout is the drop rod (pic2)
Pic 3 is the drop rod to the butterfly spindle connection.
Pic 4 is the ball joint connection to the carb.

This set up was contrived when the Volumex was fitted 7 years ago and has never stuck or required any attention save annual lubrication.



















Roger
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Hillebrand

Germany
87 Posts

Posted - 26/03/2020 :  20:18:23  Show Profile
David, Peter,Tim and Roger,

Thank You all for the impressive photos! It's a great community!
Hope You all are keeping well!

otto
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Hillebrand

Germany
87 Posts

Posted - 26/03/2020 :  20:29:13  Show Profile
David,Peter,Tim and Roger,

Thank You all for the impressive photos!
It's a great community!
Hope You all are keeping well!


otto
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roger cadogan

United Kingdom
250 Posts

Posted - 26/03/2020 :  20:55:14  Show Profile
Hi Otto, when you decide which route to follow and complete it we all look forward to your pictures, best of luck. After that you will have the great joy of sorting out timing and mixture.
I thought mine was OK even after the Vintage Revival at Zandvoort but believe me there is no substitute for a rolling road with someone who knows what they are doing.

Roger
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Peter Green

United Kingdom
1682 Posts

Posted - 26/03/2020 :  21:16:04  Show Profile
I should have mentioned that Tim Luffingham did not want a choke fitted because he wanted to use the KiGas system, it works very well.




Peter
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Deess

France
82 Posts

Posted - 27/03/2020 :  06:51:34  Show Profile
I have the kigas system also as the main jet for that SU is a fixed jet.[.Jaguar heater choke from Burlen.]...so no adjustment for mixture...all on the needle..
Have ordered an air mixture gauge [not for fixing in the dash !] with
lambda sensor to get the mixture right and keep an eye out for lean......
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roger cadogan

United Kingdom
250 Posts

Posted - 27/03/2020 :  20:00:32  Show Profile
Well chaps, it occurs to me that if you fit a key-gas system to a P type ( and very good they are to) how about using the original choke knob to actuate it. Now there's food for thought in these constrained days. Stay well.

Roger
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Earl of Cavendish

Australia
19 Posts

Posted - 30/03/2020 :  07:56:37  Show Profile
Hi Otto,I have a s/c L Magna with the blower in front of the radiator and the SU carburettor on the Near side (L).I ran a long 1/4 inch rod low down on the Off side (R)of the motor parallel too the inside and just below the top of the chassis rail and connected it to the original accelerator extension in the engine compartment with a rod of suitable length and a couple of ball joints-this is at the rear end of the rod,at the front end of the rod I have another shorter rod which runs across the chassis this has balljoints at each end one connecting to the carburettor butterfly spindle the other to the longitudinal rod.this short rod runs under the rear of the Wade Blower I am using .The long rod runs in simple plain steel bushes which have stubs which are bolted to the chassis rail (top of chassis at the rear about 105 mm from the firewall and the bottom at the front about 75 mm from the front cross member,the alignment between the two is critical and achieved by careful bending,also the clearance in the region of the steering box is about 3mm either side of the long rod.I have been using this for about 40 years and it works well and I think it is less complicated than the alternatives offered and it has less free play in the system,I certainly would not use a bowden cable as they generally become sticky
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