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 M-type Flywheel Removal
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LewPalmer

USA
2496 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  18:44:11  Show Profile
In stripping my 1930 M-type engine, I have encountered a problem. What I thought to be simply the cover holding the spigot bearing, I found it was well and truly stuck to the flywheel. I have managed to separate the flywheel from the cover, but I now find that the "cover" is actually stuck to the crankshaft and may form the inside taper over the end of the crank.
Since there is no way to get behind neither the "cover" nor the flywheel, and the flywheel housing bolts are behind the flywheel, the question is how I can separate the flywheel, the "cover" and the crank.

I have done both J-types and P types, but this arrangement is not familiar to me.

Lew Palmer
PA1169, 2M1281




Edited by - LewPalmer on 23/05/2020 18:46:15

g waiting

United Kingdom
474 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  19:07:22  Show Profile
Hi Lew,
Same on the J2. Remove circlip and spigot bearing to expose large nut, remove nut, apply special puller to bolts, screw in forcing screw and hope flywheel and rear bearing flange move backwards.
Good luck,
Garry
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kimber

United Kingdom
1391 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  19:14:28  Show Profile
Lew

Same as a J2.

Looks like you've removed the 'cover' and I think the photo also shows the circlip has been removed. If so, you now need to remove the spigot bearing (you may need an internal puller). Then remove the locking bar which stops the crankshaft nut undoing. Then undo the crank nut a couple of turns. You'll need a decent puller that fixes to the 4 studs. A bit of brass inbetween the puller end the end of the crank will protect the thread if you are intending to re-use the crank

Flywheel and boss come off together.

Easy with the right tools and know-how. Easily butchered without.
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kimber

United Kingdom
1391 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  19:16:45  Show Profile
Clearly, you can type quicker than I can, Garry!
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Keith Durston

United Kingdom
472 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  19:20:14  Show Profile
Be careful not to loose your "nutless bolts" through the flywheel. I would put nuts on them while you are waiting to do the next stage. They should be interference tight but I have had some that are worryingly loose and are inclined to disappear through the flywheel. As you have found out if they disappear you can't get them back! You will probably need all four bolts to hold the special puller which may need a lot of torque and clouting on the end bolt to release the flywheel from the taper.
Good luck,
Keith
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LewPalmer

USA
2496 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  20:25:44  Show Profile
Follow on to my previous post:
1) the bolts have fallen down (ouch!)
2) the “cover” (boss?) seems to be jammed onto the nut, but I can’t get the pilot bearing out, so a small / tiny inside puller is needed, which I don’t have.

Lew Palmer
PA1169, 2M1281
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g waiting

United Kingdom
474 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  20:37:47  Show Profile
Hi Lew,
Bugger is an appropriate word, It maybe possible to put the bolts back in with needle nose pliers through the starter motor hole. Never done it but no other ideas, others may have a solution.
Garry
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mgmog

United Kingdom
302 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  20:38:52  Show Profile
You can use an expansion bolt if you have one handy.

Rich Stott
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LewPalmer

USA
2496 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  21:15:08  Show Profile
My problem now is there is NO room behind the pilot bearing to insert a puller. It’s dead up against the crankshaft nut.
Tomorrow is another day.

Lew Palmer
PA1169, 2M1281
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mgmog

United Kingdom
302 Posts

Posted - 23/05/2020 :  22:38:09  Show Profile
Pop expanding bolt into the bearing, tighten bolt until its outer cage is firm on inside of bearing, then pull the bolt head with bearing attached out, the cage acts on the inside of the bearing not the rear or between the balls.

Rich Stott
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Chris Harland

New Zealand
16 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  05:52:20  Show Profile
Hi Lee,
Having just gone through the same exercise it is possible to get the bolts back through the fly wheel and the rear main sleeve flange with two magnets.
You need the small round type on a telescopic shaft that we use to pick up things that are droped into hard to get at places. They are usually available from auto parts shops
I used one through the bolt hole and the other to offer the bolt up to the rear of the flywheel through the hole where the starter mounts to the rear of the engine
Regards
Chris
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Chris Harland

New Zealand
16 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  05:53:50  Show Profile
Sorry that should read Lew
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poulsendk

Denmark
233 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  10:11:12  Show Profile
I made a Flywhell puller for my M types








Jørgen Poulsen

MGM 1930 MGM 1931
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Keith Durston

United Kingdom
472 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  10:15:53  Show Profile
Lew, I seem to remember that somebody a long time ago (maybe Ian Judd, Blue M on this forum) talked about "hydraulicing" it out. I had never heard this expression before but assume it is some sort of hydraulic pressure that will force the bearing out. If nobody else has any ideas maybe an email to Ian might get him to explain how this technique is done. I am pleased to hear that the bolt solution exists. I am sorry my warning post about that arrived too late!!
Good luck.
Keith
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PeterL

United Kingdom
1263 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  10:55:27  Show Profile
Jorgen,

nice bit of kit... but confusion... it seems to be bolted on, I would have expected to see nuts on that side rather than bolt heads.

And hydraulickinbg... pack the hole with grease, insert your clutch alighnment tool and strike with a mallet. I think that was it... Sudden increase in pressure forces the bearing out. If it moves pack more grease and repeat... Not done it myself but info stored away for when I do...

I would await conformation from those who have done it...

Cheers

P
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Cooperman

United Kingdom
595 Posts

Posted - 24/05/2020 :  13:22:22  Show Profile
When I did mine I had the same problem, Keith kindly lent me his small puller, but I couldn't get behind the bearing, I had an old puller and took off one of the arms and ground it down a bit, put it in the bearing then forced a smaller round bar into the hole which pushed the arm under the bearing moving it sufficiently to get the puller under the bearing and get it out.
My biggest problem was getting the locking bar out as it was so "buggered" I can't remember quite how I got it out, it didn't come out in one piece I think I must have chiselled it out. As I was replacing the crank it didn't matter that the end of the crank was not in pristine condition.

John Cooper M 628
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