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DickMorbey
United Kingdom
3672 Posts |
 Posted - 27/04/2017 : 17:27:24
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I agree with Andrew's observations - I prefer the slotted pin compared with the allure of convenience offered by the allen-based fastening system. No need to ask how I know this!
Dick Morbey
PA/PB 0743
Frieth, Oxon, UK |
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kimber
United Kingdom
1529 Posts |
Posted - 28/04/2017 : 00:24:44
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Mike asked off-line to explain my earlier posting in more detail.
Et voila:-
It depends on where the base of the Allen key recess sits when you have the correct clearance:-
The thickness of the recessed part of the adjuster is minimal (at the root of the thread) and if the base of the recessed portion sits well down inside the locknut it doesn't take much effort to wring it off when the tightening the nut (been there, done that). Whilst I agree with Colin they should not be over-tightened (incidentally, one of my pet hates on old cars, small fasteners being over- tightened) they do need to be reasonably tight as the last thing you want is one of the blighters coming undone. I am surprised that somebody has managed to do this on your car. I've never seen that before with the original components, which are normally pretty durable.
In my opinion, for the reason given above, the Allen key replacements are inferior to the originals. That said, I don't know if anyone has yet reproduced this part to the original spec' ?
I realise that many people use the Allen key type which should be fine but I would urge anyone doing so to check how far the hexagon recess extends inside the lock-nut when it is tightened.
I realise a diagram and some actual measurements would be really helpful but I'm quite busy just now.
Hope that helps.
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mdtech12
United Kingdom
31 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2017 : 20:38:57
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My second trolley jack finally arrived to help ease gearbox/bell housing away from engine, so its back on track. Managed to ease the latter back to give enough room to undo the clutch housing nuts after first removing the split pins from each "castlated" nut..a real pain on some. The clutch cover plate was then easily removed. A QUESTION: Do I have enough material on the clutch operating disk as shown in the picture a I can't find reference as to how much should be on there when new?
I had to remove this from the clutch housing, as I needed to be able to swing the clutch withdrawal levers up in order to remove the remaining fulcrum adjusting screws. These will now be replaced either with my home made slotted type or the socket type as supplied by sports and vintage. I plan on using loctite 222 on the studs as well as the lock nuts which has the property of holding them in place yet still allowing adjustment. The following picture shows these in place with the operating disk sitting situ.
You may notice at this stage I'm planning on using my home made adjusters, suitably hardened with the compound BETA1 from EKP supplies UK. Anyway, any comments on the lining of the operating disk would be appreciated.
Mike |
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mdtech12
United Kingdom
31 Posts |
Posted - 08/05/2017 : 19:24:11
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ALL DONE AND WORKING A TREAT! New release bearing and small thrust plate included in the build. I fabricated a clutch alignment tool out of some brass rod and decided to use my own fulcrum adjusting screws in the end suitable case hardened and a home made 3/16" gauge to set up the distance between the thrust plate friction surface and the release bearing. The photos below show the new thrust plate with plenty of lining proving the old one was worn.
The finished beast "Poppy" now completed and ready for the summer.
Once again a big thank you for all participants in this discussion. The adjusting screws by the way were made from 1/4" BSF rodding, 1" long and turned down on one end to the minor diameter of the thread and a small radius applied on the fulcrum point. A 1mm slotting cutter was used for the screwdriver slot then all 4 adjusters were case hardened.
Mike |
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Jon Marsh
United Kingdom
49 Posts |
Posted - 25/06/2017 : 12:49:37
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I have a J2 not a P, but what Lew Palmer says is certainly worth a try. I have had the same problem staring from a stop with clutch drag and fiddled endlessly with the adjustment in the bell housing as described in the Clutching at Straws article. Then I adjusted the stop bolt a few turns - transformation!
Does anyone know the correct adjustment for this stop bolt or is it trial and error?? |
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